Being able to walk among the red cedar trees of the Ancient Forest (Chun T’oh Whudujut) feels like a privilege. Not just because areas like this—with towering thousand-year-old evergreens as far as the eye or iPhone can see—are increasingly rare, but also because the ground I’m treading was literally built by hand.

The Ancient Forest Trail, starting just over an hour’s drive from Prince George, is a roughly 2.5-kilometre “boardwalk”: a combination of wide dock-like paths, wooden steps and long, shingled planks elevated from the forest floor. The path, hand-built by conservationists, gives locals and visitors safe access to the area, and in turn protects the rich and biodiverse earth from being obliterated by hiking boots. Plus, it’s reasonably accessible: I meet “hikers” of various ages and abilities on the trail, many of them totally comfortable sporting jeans.

The city of Prince George is often overlooked by those travelling British Columbia. It’s not known for sexy restaurants or a buzzy downtown core like southern neighbours Vancouver or Victoria. But for picturesque views of historic waterways, tremendous trees and skyscraper-free horizons, Prince George rules, royally. The Ancient Forest Trail is one of many beautiful pathways through the gorgeous landscape that B.C.—and Canada itself—is often celebrated for. But unlike more daunting trails, this trek is the ideal combo of undisturbed nature and walkability: it’s wilderness, but well-marked. Navigating it doesn’t require the skills of a hardcore survivalist—though many of its stewards, past and present, are.

The trail is in the traditional territory of the Lheidli T’enneh First Nation, and this forest was once a hot spot for gathering medicinal plants (before residential schools had a devastating impact on this and other Lheidli T’enneh ways of life). Then, it was doomed to be logged… until 2005, when University of Northern British Columbia (UNBC) student Dave Radies took a special interest in the colossal red cedars, and conservationists got on board. Thanks to joint efforts from the Lheidli T’enneh, UNBC and local hiking groups, it was named a Class A provincial park in 2016, three years after the ultra-accessible path was built by a team of volunteers that hauled in and secured every step.

As I navigate the wood planks and steady stairs of the Ancient Forest Trail, signs point out the impressive waterfall, the stunning buttress roots of “Treebeard” and the “Radies Tree” and the apparently very big “Big Tree” (which, from ground level, I’ll admit looks no taller than the others—they’re all equally majestic). Besides the clear path that keeps all visitors sure-footed and the forest floor safe, the Ancient Forest feels like sincere immersion in nature. It’s about as true north as it gets.

Chasing Waterfalls: One of the greatest highlights of the Ancient Forest Trail is the waterfall—it’s near the start of the two-ish kilometre loop, and proof that you don’t need to scale a mountain to score a beautiful view. Photo by Tourism Prince George/Darrin Rigo
Photo by Northern BC Tourism/Andrew Strain
Photo by Northern BC Tourism/Taylor Burk

My visit to the Ancient Forest was guided by Lheidli T’enneh Elder Clifford Quaw, a residential school survivor who generously shared facts about the environment, poignant life stories and old-guy jokes (many of the pull-my-finger variety). Learning more about the Lheidli T’enneh and the history of the land is an essential part of any PG adventure—read up at lheidli.ca.

3 Spots to Eat in Prince George

1. Northern LightsEstate Winery

Riverhouse Restaurant
Photo by Northern Lights Winery

This riverside winery asks, “Why let grapes have all the fun?” and boldly bottles up fruits like strawberries, blackberries, rhubarb and blackcurrant. The tasting room offers sweet samplers and wall-to-wall waterfront views, and the Riverside Restaurant runs the gamut from fish tacos to steak. 745 Prince George Pulpmill Rd., northernlightswinery.ca

2. Betulla Burning

Betulla Burning pizza
Photo by Destination BC/Andrew Strain

Get on the food-sharing level with your fellow diner(s) before going to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint, because you’re going to want to try several of these saucy wood-fired pies. I opted for the Carne Amore (sausage, pepperoni, smoked bacon, you get it) and stole a slice or three of someone else’s Big Kahuna (smoked pork shoulder and pineapple). 1253 3rd Ave., betullaburning.com

3. Trench Brewing and Distilling

Photo by Alyssa Hirose

Catch flights and feelings at this rustic restaurant—the 1000 Peaks Witbier is fruit-forward and fun, while the Viking Amber Ale has a subtle hint of caramel. I got the smoked beef dip on a pretzel bun, and had a meaningful love affair with my side of mini mac and cheese. 399 2nd Ave., trenchbrew.ca

More Things to Do in Prince George

Space Out

Photo by Malhar R. Kendurkar, president of Prince George Astronomical Observatory

Nestled into the spectacular domed rotating roof of the Prince George Astronomical Observatory is one of the largest amateur telescopes in the country. There are open houses by donation every Friday: stargaze, learn what makes supernovas so super and nerd out with the experts. pgrasc.org

Paddle Happy

Blackday/Adobe Stock

Backwater Paddling offers kayaking lessons off of West Lake Beach: count on your delightfully no-nonsense tour guide to teach the basics, point out wildlife and help you stay as dry as possible. backwater.ca

Burn Rubber

Photo by Alyssa Hirose

Life is all about balance, so after taking in the quiet serenity of the forest, indulge your inner child with go-karting, axe-throwing and mini golf at the Raceway Fun Park. There’s a drive-in movie theatre, too. racewayfunpark.com

 

This story was originally published in the 2025 May/June print issue of Western Living Magazine. Get your free subscription here.