Visitors to Duncan, B.C., often see it as separate from the surrounding Cowichan Valley: a practical urban service stop with strip malls to spare. But along the outskirts, a batch of eateries are cropping up to blur the geographic and culinary divide between farm folk and town folk. Here’s a circle route that hits five of our top semi-rural picks.

1. Chow Bella: Italian Kitchen and Deli

6159 Lakes Rd.

Italian Kitchen

Half farm-to-table locavorism, half European import bonanza, the Brizzi family’s Italian Kitchen and Deli features note-perfect pizzas, charcuterie and desserts made with meat and produce from the surrounding Grove Hall Farm, along with shelves of Italian staples such as olive oils, tapenades and Fabbri cherries. Enjoy a fresh caprese salad ($11.45) on the woodsy deck, and absolutely grab a frozen lasagna ($27.50) for an indulgent dinner later.  

 

2. Cooking with Gas: Glenora Store & Café

5090 Indian Rd.

Glenora Store

At first glance you might assume the old-school fuel pump in front of Glenora Store & Café is a decorative relic from the site’s 1950s origins as a mechanic shop, but don’t be surprised when locals stop by to fill up while you enjoy a flaky, housemade all-beef sausage roll ($5.50)  and a bowl of hearty chowder ($8.95) with Island-sourced clams. Before you go, browse the giftware produced by the adjacent nonprofit Glenora Farm Weavery—and don’t forget a classic soft-serve for the road.

 

3. Field of Dreams: Alderlea Farm Cafe

3390 Glenora Rd.

Alderlea Farm Cafe

The second-generation family-run Alderlea Farm Cafe (not to be confused with the Alderlea winery across town) might just have the prettiest view within reach of city centre. Feast on the pastoral scene while also feasting on a wood-fired Forager pizza ($22) with wild mushrooms and a slice of pie made with whatever’s in season on the biodynamic farm.

 

4. Bread Winner: Hank’s

3-5311 Trans Canada Hwy.

Photo by ReWild Us Media

The daily croissants ($5) and two-hander sandos (from $10) from one-year-old Hank’s are the big draw, but make sure to check the fridge case: it’s stocked with pâtés and preserves from co-owner Louise Pickles’ long-running and local-focused Pickles’ Pantry brand. Lunch in hand, take a spot on one of the handful of stools to watch the crew deftly folding up the next round of sourdough.

This story was originally published in the July/August 2024 print issue of Western Living magazine. Sign up for your free subscription here.

Melissa Edwards

Melissa Edwards