It is not breaking news to report that Nelson is small. The downtown strip stretches just seven blocks, and only 12,000 people call the Kootenay-region town home. But what is  shocking, for me, is that I find myself fantasizing about living there as soon as I step out of my hotel. Whoops.

I know it’s a common feeling to get sucked into a vacation and start dreaming about putting down roots after a week in Maui or wherever, but it’s a rare experience for me—I’m in a happily committed relationship with Vancouver, and I’m a proud (and probably mildly annoying) city girl. My husband regularly threatens to buy a house in the rural reaches of suburbs like Ladner and, in turn, I regularly remind him that I would rather get divorced. For me, “livability” means being within arms’ reach of an oat milk latte at any given time, and in my neighbourhood on Vancouver’s west side I can walk out my door and find everything I need—sidewalks filled with interesting neighbours, charming wine bars, green grocers, bookshops, date-night restaurants, dance clubs, comedy venues, baked goods. So while I do love to travel, I’ve never even imagined the possibility of turning a getaway into something more.

And then along comes Nelson.

Who among us, though, could resist the charms of Baker Street? It’s not just the pretty heritage facades of the buildings that delight: the pedestrian-friendly main drag is packed with enough locally owned boutiques, vintage shops, cafés, bars and impressive restaurants to make an admittedly snobby city slicker question everything she’s ever known. Walkability, urban amenities and the option to own a three-bedroom home with a backyard for under $600K? For the first time in my small-town travels, the lure is real.

“This is so cute,” I mumble to myself every time we enter a new store, its inevitably friendly clerk pointing us toward rows of handmade stationery (Cartolina), racks of just-right cool-girl slouchy T-shirts (Zinnia Textiles) or their recommended rom-com read (Otter Books). “So, so cute,” I repeat, taking in the greenhouse-like atrium of Empire Coffee or peering through the window at the colourful pottery drying on the shelves of Mud Ceramics Club. I do manage to keep silent inside the bright and buzzy Italian spot Marzano—but only because my mouth is full of perfectly al dente housemade tagliolini.

What really has me falling for Nelson, though, isn’t just its small-but-mighty food scene, or its hip boutiques (long after I spotted it, I’m still thinking about an Eve Gravel tunic I saw), or even the striking mountain and lake views in every corner of the background. (And it definitely isn’t the hiking, biking or skiing, because we’re too busy slurping down hot bowls of ramen at Red Light to do anything remotely close to exercise—next time.) It’s joining a group of laughing, heel-stompin’ newbie line dancers at the sold-out Boot Scootin’ Boogie Night at the Royal; it’s stepping into the velvet-drenched Capitol Theatre for a behind-the-scenes tour in advance of a sold-out sketch comedy revue; it’s watching guitar-toting Nelsonites (Nelsonians?) jamming out at Backroads Brewing on a random Monday night. These glimpses of locals in their element all provide a clear picture of what real life here could be like, among a community of people happy to be building something beautiful in the shadow of a mountain.

I’m not the only one who finds the spirit here just as compelling as the housemade soft pretzels at Empire. As I’m butchering the steps to a “Chattanooga” line dance over at the Royal, I strike up a conversation with a woman who’s fully dressed on-theme (shoutout to that shearling duster) and who seems to know everyone in the room—despite the fact that she’s from Miami.

An ex-boyfriend brought her here years ago, she tells me, and though he’s long gone, she keeps coming back, sometimes for months at a time. She does a little skiing at the nearby Whitewater Resort while she’s in town, of course, but what really draws her back in is the Nelson community. She’s got the Royal’s event schedule memorized, and has a favourite pizza joint locked in (Beauties). She gives us directions to a speakeasy called Easy Tiger, hidden down the street. She may be from many miles (and several plane rides) away, but she’s made Nelson her home away from home. At the end of the night, I two-step my way back to the Hume Hotel, the spring in my stride driven by more than just the Shania Twain now stuck in my head, and wonder if maybe I couldn’t do the same,

EAT & DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

1. For the Best Breakfast 

Empire Coffee (616 Vernon St.)

Everything on the breakfast sandwich at Empire is elevated just so: the classic egg-and-English-muffin sando is accented with back bacon, tomato jam, Swiss cheese and chipotle aioli. It’s an ideal accompaniment to a bracing Stumptown espresso, especially when enjoyed in the sunny glass atrium, but you can’t go wrong with the daily baked treats here, too:  this could be Nelson’s best cinnamon roll. adventurehotel.ca

2. For Your Second Coffee of the Morning 

John Ward Fine Coffee (503 Baker St.)

The airy, light-filled café is packed with greenery, a rotating selection of artwork and Nelson’s finest remote workers clacking away on their laptops. But more importantly: iced lavender lattes, made with Origins Coffee beans, and fresh-baked savoury scones. johnwardfinecoffee.com

3. For a Bowl-You-Over Lunch

Red Light Ramen (308 Herridge Ln.)

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You wouldn’t necessarily describe Red Light Ramen’s offerings as authentically Japanese, but you can’t deny that founder Korina Langevin is serving up something special in her cozy back-alley noodle shop, with a commitment to both organic ingredients and sustainable business practices (such as the compost going to local farmers). Just as importantly, the hearty bowls of miso honeynut squash ramen and soy-braised pork belly rice bowls (and Langevin’s accompanying natural-focused wine list) are  flavourful and filling in equal measure. redlightramenbar.ca

4. For Farm-to-Table Fare 

Pitchfork (518 Hall St)

The best way to make sure you’re feasting on the freshest seasonal produce? Head to a restaurant that’s owned by a farmer. Anything that’s not grown at Pitchfork Garden is sourced from Kootenay suppliers or sustainable producers. The braised duck leg is served with pickled beets and potato pavé; vegetarians will find the housemade mushroom and bean burger (served on a Kootenay Bakery sourdough bun, of course) equally hearty. pitchforkeatery.ca

5. For a Friendly Pint 

Backroads Brewing (460 Baker St.)

The space is scruffy (as are the bartenders), but isn’t that what you want from a brewery? Somewhere you can spill a bit of your golden ale without stress? Toddlers dart around underfoot as locals fill up their growlers at the counter, and a stack of board games keeps the fun flowing between pints. Check the events  calendar to see if a comedy show, chess club meeting or silent-reading hangout are on deck. backroadsbrewing.com

6. For Vegging Out 

Sprout (569 Ward St.)

Need to get your greens? Vegan counter-service spot Sprout has you covered. It’s not all sprouts here, though: you’ll find delightfully carb-heavy comfort food on the menu, too. Ginger soy “meatballs” are served on a bed of coconut rice with a wallop of kimchi and gochujang sauce; the vegan donair wraps spiced faux meat in fluffy naan and plenty of donair sauce. welovesprout.com

7. For Perfect Pasta 

Marzano (153 Baker St.)

The tiled wood-fired pizza oven is the centrepiece of Marzano’s design, but don’t be fooled: top-notch pies are just one of the highlights of this upscale Italian spot. (Well, not too upscale—the clientele happily sips spritzes while wearing vintage jeans and five-panel hats after a day of heliskiing.) The housemade pasta here would stand up to any major city’s top Italian joint—and is the ideal vehicle for delivering roasted tomato ragu with duck sausage and broccolini cream or truffle-infused chestnut puree with roasted shimeji mushroom. marzanonelson.com

8. For a Nelson Nightcap 

Broken Hill (479 Baker St.)

Slide into a leather-lined booth at Broken Hill and try not to make eye contact with the mounted buck head on the wall as you pore over the options from their whisky library. And if you can’t make a decision, don’t sweat it: there’s always the option to take a flight of Japanese whiskies for a spin, or simply sip on something from the robust cocktail menu. The mezcal paloma (with salted vanilla syrup), for instance, is smoky, citrussy and refreshing. brokenhillnelson.ca

Stay Here: The Hume Hotel

The Hume Hotel was constructed in 1898, and though it’s been through a renovation or five over the years, the heritage charm remains. Restore your energy after a day of whipping up and down Baker Street with a nap on the plush beds or with a rejuvenating schvitz in the cedar-lined infrared sauna at the hotel’s Aura Spa.

Rooms from $180, 422 Vernon St., humehotel.com

The Day trip: Ainsworth Hot Springs

No matter how deeply you fall in love with a town, sometimes you need a little break. Ainsworth—a hot springs resort that draws daytrippers and honeymooners alike—is 45 minutes down the road from Nelson. The hot springs in the area have been a destination for centuries, renowned for their healing properties; today, the turquoise pools of Ainsworth make for a clean, comfortable way to enjoy a soothing soak. While claustrophobes might want to avoid the kitschy-fun faux rock tunnel connected to the hottest pool, everyone should try a dip into the accompanying icy cool-plunge pool at some point. The Spirit Water Spa in the hotel offers additional opportunities for chilling out, with luxe treatments like a glacial clay wrap and massage.

This much relaxation tends to work up an appetite. Luckily, the resort’s Ktunaxa Grill awaits, with an elevated, Indigenous-inspired menu that celebrates a bounty of locally sourced ingredients. The tender elk Wellington, wrapped in flaky puff pastry, is worth the journey from Nelson alone; pair it with a glass of red from Indigenous-owned Nk’Mip Cellars.

3609 Balfour-Kaslo-Galena Bay Hwy., ainsworthhotsprings.com

This travel story was originally published in the July/August 2025 print issue of Western Living magazine.