A Relaxing Getaway to San Juan Island: Wine, Alpacas and Farm-Fresh Finds

After a summer spent soaking up the sun at the beaches in my own neighbourhood, I was looking for a different type of getaway. Just a few hours south of Vancouver in Washington state, San Juan Island offers a little paradise full of lush greenery, cozy lodges, working farms and locally grown-and-vinified wine, making this weekend trip one of easy-going exploration and necessary unplugging.

 

1. RAISE A GLASS

San Juan is easy to navigate; after exiting the ferry, you’ll follow Roche Harbor Road, which eventually loops you around the entire island (and, in our case, directly to our weekend abode). Along the way, make a very necessary “it’s officially vacation” pit stop at San Juan Vineyard (3136 Roche Harbor Rd.), where next to the sprawling vines you’ll find an 1895 schoolhouse that’s been renovated into a stylish tasting room.

On our visit, we grab a bottle of the estate-grown 2021 Madeleine Angevine ($44), a medium-bodied white with strong citrus notes and just enough minerality to make it a perfect pairing for the island’s ample fresh seafood. (Though we choose to open the bottle right there on the heated patio and enjoy our first San Juan sunset in utter bliss.)

2. ISLAND HIDEAWAY

There are a lot of folks who head out to San Juan to just get into the woods. That might mean traditional camping, or more upscale accommodations that offer lakefront access (and plenty of time to sit on a deck and just stare at a sun-dappled lake). Between those two options, we park ourselves firmly in the middle, thanks to Lakedale Resort’s yurts (4313 Roche Harbor Rd.). Lakedale offers traditional rooms in its large, cozy lodge, as well as glamping tents and bring-your-own-tent campgrounds—but the yurts offer something nothing else has: a hot tub.

And take it from me: after spending a day traipsing over the property’s 82 acres, there’s nothing better than soaking your weary bones in a private jacuzzi with the foliage and stars above. The yurts themselves are surprisingly spacious—at 450 square feet, larger than some hotel suites—and despite being positioned right up against the edge of the forest, contain plenty of creature comforts: a king-sized bed, an ensuite, TV, nap-worthy couch, dining table and a kitchen stocked with everything you need to grill up your dinner. Because, yes, there’s also a big barbecue on the deck.

Our visit is in fall, so many of Lakedale’s summer activities (think crafting for kids, volleyball, fishing, swimming, s’mores and so on) are already closed for the season, but the resort still has a very camp-like energy. There’s an ample list of board games to choose from (we’re cribbage fanatics), plus trike-boats and lots of cycling trails, providing us with that endless-summer vibe, even if we’re firmly in flannel.

3. FRESHLY FORAGED

A quick jaunt up the road from our home away from home is Duck Soup (50 Duck Soup Ln.), a restaurant that feels more like a cabin tucked away into the woods. The locally foraged and farmed Pacific Northwest cuisine here lands in between comfortable and elegant: think blistered shishitos ($20) topped with feta, lemon dill aioli and slivered almonds (a textural delight) or a galette ($22) piled high with plump figs, roasted garlic and herbed creme fraiche. My favourite dish of the evening is the steak Diane ($77): slices of chateaubriand drenched in a brandy-mustard cream sauce served alongside duck fat mille-feuille potatoes makes for a decadent main course. Plus, our server gives us a ride back to our yurt; how’s that for small-town hospitality?

4. ALPACA PUNCH

We spend our first morning island-side exploring the quaintest part of San Juan: Roche Harbor. With historical buildings galore, this little seaside neighbourhood also serves as fall foliage central—and another pit stop before our first real outing of the day: the Krystal Acres alpaca farm (3501 W Valley Rd.). The 40-acre working farm is chock-full of adorable (and sometimes bossy) alpacas that you can feed on-site. At the time of our visit there are babies in a separate fenced-in area as well, so, yes, I have found my new favourite animal.

5. DISTILL THE ONE

Still in the Roche Harbor area is the preserved site of the English Army’s presence on the island: English Camp (3905 W Valley Rd.) was made famous in 1859 when the island was occupied by both American and British troops. The site contains a Victorian-style garden and multiple buildings—and it’s also just a quick drive to the San Juan Island Distillery (12 Anderson Ln.), where Rich Anderson and Suzy and Hawk Pingree (pictured below) make 14 different gins as well as flavoured brandies and liqueurs. After an informative (and free) tasting, we land on the micro distillery’s Spy Hop gin ($81), made with Washington apples instead of grain. It has since elevated our G&T game thanks to the gin’s unique botanicals: locally foraged lavender and roses.

IN A PINCH

San Juan Island Sea Salt (80 Nichols St.) is right on the main drag in Friday Harbor. Made with only solar evaporation, these finishing salts are the brainchild of Brady Ryan, who infuses massive amounts of flavour into every pinch. Think blends like kimchi (made with gochugaru peppers), ramen (ginger, shiitake mushroom and nori) and my personal fave: popcorn. It has nutritional yeast, dill, garlic, black pepper, red pepper flakes and cayenne and makes the ubiquitous movie snack next-level delicious. While you’re there, grab one of the massive smoked-salt-topped cookies ($7, showcased below by Ryan’s partner and wife Leah Wymer) or other pantry goodies from the well-stocked shelves.

7. BREW IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT

Living in Vancouver, I’m no stranger to craft breweries, though San Juan Island Brewing Company (410 A St.) is up there with the largest I’ve visited. The brewpub may look industrial from the outside, but it offers a long tap list of award-winning craft ales and lagers, a lot of which are super drinkable thanks to lower IBU and ABV levels. Food-wise, it runs the gamut of American pub fare, like mini corn dogs ($18) and wood-fired pizza (from $23)—along with Pacific Northwest-leaning dishes like a harissa-topped wild salmon sandwich ($30).

8. FOXY FIX

Our second morning calls for a strong, well-brewed cup of coffee, so we head into Friday Harbor to Salty Fox Coffee (85 Front St.). The adorable converted house makes a great latte ($5) but also manages to get the bagel-to-cream ratio just right (as in, much more cream cheese than is socially acceptable to request).

9. MUSSEL BEACH

The vibes are high as we sit out on the water’s edge at Westcott Bay Shellfish Co. (904 Westcott Dr.), having lucked into its last day of the season. This working shellfish farm has two seasonal eateries on site and is known for its harvested-on-site bivalves. The High Beach Sweets ($5 each) are among the biggest oysters I’ve ever had, while still retaining the sweetness they’re known for. And the mussels ($36), though apparently a rarity on the menu, are bonkers delicious thanks to white wine, leeks and cream. It’s here that I contemplate what it might be like to move to the island full-time—which is always how I know a vacation has provided a full relaxation reset.