The Toughest Rose in Town—International Edition

South Africa’s not one for lightness.

Mulderbosch 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé $14A few weeks back we fawned just a bit over the lovely, but serious rosé from Summerhill—and loved that it eschewed the usual pale pink etherealness for some pink with some heft. Well, leave it to the South African’s to up the ante.Mulderbosch is one of the country’s great producers. Their seminal Sauvignon Blanc was a trailblazer back in the late 80s, predating the Kiwi craze by a decade and letting the public know the South Africa was a country to be reckoned with for white wine. It was a big, brawny take on the grape so it’s no surprise that their rosé follows much the same playbook.For starters it’s made with Cabernet Sauvignon. Almost no one makes rosé with Cab, in part because even in rosé form it’s not subtle and it’s not the best for either freshness or acidity (that’s why you never here someone “it’s so hot out, I could go for a glass of Screaming Eagle.”) say. But, truth be told, I sort of like it. What Cab can deliver is a swack of fruit and this baby serves up strawberry and cherry notes hard and fast. And the acidity isn’t bad and the sweetness is kept in check and the alcohol (12.5%) is low. The only people who don’t seem to be on the same page are the ones  writing the wines tasting notes, which start “Delicate pink colour with subtle salmon hues.” Delicate pink? This bottle looks look like a Beaujolais!But don’t hold their desire to be part of the light-hued crowd against them, especially when they keep the price so low—$14. Give it a good chill and let the darkness reign.