If you’ve ever left a bottle of pinot on your counter for too long, you know that wine and vinegar are two stops on the continuum of fermentation. So, when dealing with all things pickled, there’s a lot of thematic overlay. But like with any warring siblings, it makes for a tricky pairing—try to match the acidity and you can have a volatile meltdown, but go too rich and the juxtaposition can be jarring to the palate. Here are three that walk the fine line.

Blue Grouse Bacchus 2023 ($27)

Dry riesling is the safest pickle pairing (close your eyes and choose a Synchromesh label), but we’re jumping across the Georgia Strait to embrace the quirky bacchus grape: it’s vibrant and wildly aromatic and will give a warm embrace to brine’s more aggressive aspects.

Road 13 Old Vines Sparkling Chenin 2019 ($45) 

Chenin is the Leatherman tool of grapes in that it pairs with almost everything, but its mid-weight body might not always be perfect with pickles… until you add some vibrant bubbles and age. Then, the potential whipsaw between plate and glass is cushioned.

Little Farm Pied de Cuvee Cabernet Franc ($35)

We don’t often write about Master of Wine Rhys Pender’s Little Farm wines because they sell out so frequently, but he’s a wizard with crunchy, juicy Loire-style cabernet franc—one of the few reds that works with these recipes.

Neal McLennan

Neal McLennan