Place Setting: This 50-Foot Horseshoe Bar Is the Star of Vancouver’s Heritage Restaurant and Bar

Restaurateur Paul Zhang recognizes that some of his favourite Chinese restaurants in Vancouver lean modest when it comes to decor. “A lot of Chinese restaurants are strictly only about the food, and they are fantastic,” he says. “Everyone is working very hard to produce at the highest calibre.” But as Zhang took over the space of a former no-frills tequila-and-beer joint on South Main to open Heritage Restaurant and Bar (a third location for his Heritage Asian Eatery team), he turned more of his focus toward, well, the frills.

Vancouver’s Moor Design was happy to take on the renovation. “This was [Heritage’s] first elevated, large-scale restaurant—their previous places were a little bit more of a casual affair,” says Sarah Desaulniers, principal interior designer at Moor. The restaurant team was already killing it in the kitchen, and this was an opportunity to give the dining space just as much attention as the handmade dumplings they served.

The renovation would transform the 1,000-square-foot space from a graffiti-splashed eatery to a moody and modern Chinese restaurant, but one standout element of the original interior was definitely there to stay: the 50-foot-long horseshoe bar. “It’s totally unique for a space like this,” says Desaulniers. Refreshed with vertical green tiles, cane and wood panelling and open shelving for displaying unique bottles and glassware, the bar is a gorgeous focal point with an undeniable wow-factor. Zhang points out that the curved shape also fosters community. “It adds an element of chatting with strangers—talking to the neighbour that’s next to you, seeing what’s on their plate, just getting a conversation started.”

What’s on their plate might be crispy wontons, garlicky noodles, gai lan with a sesame garlic emulsion or an entire Peking duck (brined for 48 hours and roasted in small batches in a temperature- and humidity-controlled oven). “We wanted to take classic Chinese barbecue, handmade dumplings and a few other regional dishes and push a celebratory vibe,” says Zhang. The beautiful interior certainly adds a sense of occasion—oversized fans, delicate vases and vintage art make a statement on every wall. In one corner, a silk crane mural adds a maximalist touch.

But the owner’s favourite design element, unsurprisingly, is a humble one: the neutral-toned custom wall finish. A local theatre set painter, Tegan Klancnik, created the textured effect using a mix of limewash, plaster and paint. “I think that adds so much,” Zhang says. It proves that attention to detail—in both the dishes and the design—is really what sets this restaurant apart. Oh, and the Bruce Lee posters on the way to the washrooms. There’s plenty to chat about with the stranger sitting across from you.

On the Menu

Heritage BBQ Chicken

This crispy-skinned chicken is a more spice-forward take on a Chinese classic. “We add some extra seasonings to it,” says Zhang. Sumac takes the starring role.

Siu Mai

The restaurant’s offerings range from sensational (a whole Peking duck) to casual, and one of the most affordable options—the handmade pork and prawn dumplings—is a flavour-bomb favourite.

Oi Ling

Zhang says this cocktail made with jasmine-infused gin, Cointreau, passion fruit, lemon and elderflower is a standout on the drink menu: “It’s refreshingly citrus-forward and well balanced.”