A Wellness Getaway in Squamish Valley: Off-Grid Yurts, Sauna Cycles and River Calm

Here’s the truth: when I check into Squamish’s Cheekye Ranch mid-week, I’m looking for respite. I’ve had a period of feeling rather unwell—I recently let go of my shares in a financially shaky business while also dealing with the death of a family matriarch, an experience that descended into infighting between aunts and uncles. Add to that the start of a new year of preschool for my toddler… well, I’m exhausted.

So, I’d figured that checking into a remote riverside yurt in B.C.’s Sea to Sky region—think well water, solar-powered electricity and no light pollution—could be the cure. Little did I know the entire ethos of the 70-acre property—with seven yurts, a cabin, campsites, a wedding venue, a sauna and a yoga dome—is just that: to heal.

The ranch’s owner, Kris Latham, is a rescuer—of both horses and yurts, with everything on the property either reclaimed or rescued. Taking my husband and I on a tour of the sprawling property as her two dogs, Boone and Gizmo, trail behind us, she explains that the money made from yurt rentals and camping feeds into the Second Chance Cheekye Ranch program for rehabilitating animals—namely, ailing or abused equines. Between the animal encounters and the “road apples” we dodge on the way to the yoga dome, it’s clear we’ve arrived somewhere a world away from my stresses. Perfect.

While the yurts on the grounds at Cheekye Ranch have a rustic feel, they’re in no way lacking in amenities. Our 24-foot, solar-powered hut is equipped with a bathroom, a kitchenette and an enclosed primary bedroom, with a two-bed loft up top. Up in said loft, there’s a clear dome through which you can stargaze, all while listening to the rushing creek that straddles the property. (For a “glamping” experience that leans more toward the “camping” part than the “glam” part, you can rent one of the smaller, 15-foot yurts on the property, sans bathroom, kitchen and, well, the luxury of a primary bedroom.)

On our first night, I have one of the first restful sleeps I’ve had in a long time—the off-grid nature of the ranch, free of wifi and TV, does the trick. That is, until I’m woken by the braying of a donkey who has made its way to our corner of the ranch. (Rescued horses and donkeys roam freely on the property, so it’s not unusual to have them come right up to your yurt, chewing on some weeds along the sides or leaning in to get a pet.)

Though a break from the real world is the goal of my stay here, the wellness offerings in nearby Squamish beckon. First up is a core mat-pilates class at Fili Space, a dual coffee shop and yoga studio that welcomes exercisers and yogis to start their day off with restorative classes or a healthful bite. Given the easy proximity of Squamish to mountain biking, climbing, kite surfing and paddleboarding, I really shouldn’t feel surprised that wellness is a way of life here; it’s an inspiring reminder to get moving when the going gets tough. I sip my green Fili Energy smoothie (made with spinach, banana, hemp seeds, cinnamon, almond milk, dates and peanut butter) and then get into the Squamish spirit with an energizing but gentle core class led by instructor Sarah Abuja.

As revitalized as I am from the morning’s yoga class (my first since the birth of my daughter four years ago), the real reason I came here was to truly unplug—and that’s where Squamish’s Aika Spa comes in.

The Scandinavian concept of Kneipp therapy has been making its mark on West Coast culture for a handful of years now: there’s Whistler’s Scandinave, multiple cold-plunge spots in Vancouver proper and, for those with a little extra budget for opulence, Vernon’s Sparkling Hills resort, which boasts an entire cycle of themed saunas and ice rooms. But there’s something extra restorative about forest bathing dozens of kilometres away from town. Deep in the woods, far away from cell reception, it’s easy to untether from the distractions of civilization—which is why this is the place Aika owner Tristan Jenkin chose for his Finnish-style sauna and cold plunge circuit. Located completely in the open air, the circuit is hidden by a wall of stacked rounds made of multiple wood types, which he describes to me as “the wall of intention.” The full gamut of West Coast lumber is represented in the wall: from cedar and hemlock to fir, maple and alder.

All the negativity, the buzzing thoughts, the modern conveniences, they stay behind the wall of intention. Inside (which is still very much outside) is a meditative space for you and yours to unwind, hit the sauna, jump into the cold plunge pools—two horse troughs fed with cold water through a hose—relax in the relaxation tent and then maybe sit around the fire on one of the six graded boulders while sipping on Aika’s housemade tea and playing around with the Tibetan singing bowls laid out beside the fire pit.

The spot can be rented out by private parties for sessions of three hours, which is about how much time one needs to unwind, according to Jenkin. “The first 90 minutes of the experience,” he says, “is just resetting.” The next 90 minutes are for really embracing the effects of the hot-cold-rest-repeat circuit.

“Hot and cold are a medicine,” Jenkin tells my husband and me. “It’s just about how you use the medicine in the right mindset and setting.”

His estimations ring true: after about an hour and a half (and three circuits into the experience), the grip of stress begins to release its hold. As the scent of warming wood and the steamy crackle of essential oil-infused water hitting hot stones fills the sauna, I’ve arrived. I’m present (and sweating profusely) in the meditative Finnish sauna, stress quite literally melting away and leaving my body in beads of sweat. I hastily hop over to the plunge troughs to cool down, then take my time to reflect and release, both inside the tent and outside by the fire pit.

Three hours later and six cycles deep, I emerge brighter and lighter—and not just because of the lost water weight.

That night, my husband and I opt to sleep upstairs in the loft and stargaze through the clear dome. We connect the dots between the stars to trace our shaky knowledge of constellations, while connecting the dots between wellness and getting out—truly—into the West Coast wilderness.

Keep Feeling Good

For a restorative getaway that features more than just getting out into the sticks, the city of Squamish has quite a few ways to feel good while escaping the big city.

1. Buy Yourself Flowers

In the late summer, Bloom and Breeze’s U-pick fields (on owner Paula de Jong’s property, conveniently located a four-minute drive from Aika Spa) are bursting with sunflowers, dahlias, zinnias and more. Grab a pair of scissors and create your own bouquet, which de Jong will wrap up for you to take home. 14988 Squamish Valley Rd., Brackendale, bloomandbreezefarm.ca

2. Treat Yourself to a Zero-Proof Cocktail

Set on the dazzlingly redeveloped waterfront, the Broken Seal serves French-Canadian fusion dishes from chef Jeremy Beaulieu. The health-conscious restaurant focuses mostly on raw or vegetable-forward dishes, and features a zero-proof menu that rivals its regular cocktail list. Try the espresso notinis, made with nutty Noa amaretto and a nitro cold brew. 38038 Loggers Ln., Squamish, thebrokenseal.ca

3. Go for Boundless Brunch

The french toast dishes, inventive hashes and selection of bennies at Fergie’s can give any other brunch spot a run for its money, and, beyond that, it’s hard to beat the feeling of eating in the forest in this treehouse-style build. The decadent but still healthful Forager (a benedict with a wild-foraged mushroom ragout) highlights the restaurant’s locavore ethos.  70002 Squamish Valley Rd., Brackendale. fergiescafe.ca