Black Creek’s Sauna Retreat Is the Ultimate Rural Escape

“You don’t have to keep up with me if I’m cycling too fast for you,” I tell my partner. We’re surrounded by farmland in Black Creek, about 10 miles north of Courtenay on Vancouver Island. He’s sweating Challengers-style (read: a lot) and focusing on taking deep breaths. I decide to leave him behind.

So, I exit the wood-fired sauna.

Oh, did you think we were biking? Fooled ya. The “cycle” in question is our movement between the hot, cedar-walled sauna and one of three icy cold-plunge tubs. This private oasis is just a few steps from the highway, but feels about as tranquil as it gets. The sauna was built by Black Creek local Steve Ellis about a year ago, and it’s an excellent promotional tool for his main business: Island Sauna, which designs, builds and delivers custom wood-fired and electric saunas in Courtenay and beyond.

Prior to our session, Ellis explained to us how he got into the field—he’s a sauna enthusiast and builder by trade, and he recognized the growing home spa trend. He particularly emphasized the importance of quality for exterior saunas: this isn’t just a hot shed—there’s a science to keeping saunas rot-free and in working order, and he knew he was the pro to do it.

We spend two hours going from hot to cold and back again. It’s nice that the experience is private and self-paced, because while my partner likes to “challenge his body,” I prefer not to get too uncomfortable on either end of the spectrum. Thinking back to the drive here, dotted with hand-painted signs advertising fresh tomatoes and free firewood, makes this downright luxe experience feel even more extraordinary. During one brief moment, a Steller’s jay actually lands on a branch just outside the panoramic sauna window. It cocks its head at us, as if surprised to find a couple of humans elegantly spa-ing in the middle of this rural area. That makes three of us.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE, CHECK THIS OUT

There’s nature aplenty in and around Courtenay—we headed to the China Bowls in Cumberland. There’s a parking lot just off the main drag (next to the recreation centre) that fills up with hikers and mountain bikers, so arrive early. Head down to the community forest entrance for an hour-or-so gentle hike to the Bowls—a crazy-cool rock formation created by years of waterfall erosion.

Brunch by the Ocean

Courtenay’s best spots to laze away those late-morning, early-afternoon hours.

1. Freyja

These beautiful, buttery croissants taste just as good as they look: the peaches and cream cruffin is like a flaky bite of sunshine, and the savoury take on pain au chocolat is oozing with cheddar cheese and jalapenos. 397 5th St.

2. Hen and Hog

The Hen and Hog Cafe is a no-frills eatery on a motel property—think chalkboard signs and classic diner fare. The breakfast sandwich is a glorious mess of fried egg, bacon and cheese on a housemade English muffin. 1190 Cliffe Ave., 250-871-7001

3. Ace Brewing Company

If your brunch is leaning lunchy, the nachos are a good call. It’s a corn tortilla tower that’s perfectly layered with four kinds of cheese, tomatoes, jalapenos and optional protein (we got the beef brisket). There’s also brews for the beer-lover and the less beer-inclined (I went for the fruity watermelon gose). 150 Mansfield Dr. 

4. Bigfoot Donuts

This buzzy spot had a hefty line even on a rainy Tuesday morning, but the indulgent, inventive doughnuts are totally worth it. The rotating seasonal flavours are pretty special (we got the maple pecan cheesecake and a caramel apple cider old fashioned). 477 5th St.

5. Off Main

I’ll never love another eggs benny like I loved this one. Off Main’s chicken-topped French toast benny marries salty and sweet, crunchy and soft—even better when dressed with the housemade Harold’s hot sauce that’s charmingly labelled with a “spicy comes out fast” warning. 355 4th St., 250-871-7001