Sun Peaks Winter Getaway Guide: Ski, Après, Stay and Explore

As a self-professed city slicker living at about eight out of 10 on the overwhelmed scale most days (taking the SkyTrain, shuttling rambunctious young boys to endless activities and youth sports, all amid the hustle and bustle of East Vancouver), there are very few moments when I’m truly by myself. So, when I get a rare long-weekend escape from East Van and find myself completely alone halfway down Sun Peaks’ iconic Five Mile ski run, in the dry, cold middle of the Thompson Okanagan, about 55 kilometres northeast of Kamloops, you best believe I’m taking a minute to savour the silence.

On the resort’s landmark run, which meanders nearly eight kilometres down Tod Mountain, I’m treated to sweeping views across B.C.’s Southern Interior. It’s the perfect day on the slopes: the base is a mild 0°C while the summit sits at -9°C. With ridgelines rolling out in the sunshine in every direction, it’s the kind of bluebird day that reminds you why you schlepped all your gear out and sojourned to the mountain.

Locals wistfully describe the small community of Sun Peaks as “Whistler 30 years ago,” before year-round mass tourism and chain eateries moved in. It’s unhurried here, with touches of whimsy that you feel as you make your way to the base chairs through the twinkle-light-adorned, European-style village.

While I’m waiting in line for the Sunburst Express, the resort’s iconic high-speed quad, a local tells me it’s a busier-than-normal weekend. But the lift line is only four minutes long, a fraction of the waits I’m used to at Whistler’s base.

Moments of silence, reflection and solitude reveal themselves throughout the day as I work my way through different runs. At one point, I end up on the back side of the mountain, in the gladed terrain of Gil’s backcountry area. Not lost exactly, just wandering, with no real sense of how long I’ve been on my own out here.

But despite the quiet, this is no small operation. Sun Peaks is Canada’s second-largest ski resort by terrain, with 4,400 acres of skiable terrain across Tod Mountain, Sundance Mountain and Mount Morrisey.

Between the gooey cheese fondue après in the village, families with young kiddos lacing up at the skating rink and firepits where folks gather around with hot chocolate (or a hot toddy) after a day on the slopes, it simply feels different here from the resort’s biggest rival. And that’s the secret locals don’t want you to spill.

The timing of my visit feels significant, too. While an unseasonably warm January has hammered ski conditions around Vancouver, with some mountains announcing temporary or early closures amid heavy rain and sustained high temperatures, Sun Peaks has new snow and fresh tracks. Compared to the conditions back home in East Vancouver, it feels like a different season altogether. I’m looking forward to coming back before I’ve even left.

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The Peak Spots

Eat

Fuel up for a day on the slopes with a hearty brekky burrito at Vertical Café. Loaded with eggs, mozzarella, beans, corn, tomato and spinach, it’s a satisfying start to a ski day.

Head to Mountain High Pizza for the Grannie Greene’s ’za, topped with mushrooms, green pepper, onion, tomato, olives and mozza. The pie is named for Nancy Greene, the Olympic gold medallist and ski legend who still hosts weekly small-group meet-and-greets during ski season.

For a group nosh, order the Mountain Board at Mantles, overlooking the village, for a curated selection of local Vernon charcuterie and artisanal cheeses. Pair it with a glass from the B.C. wine list or the Canadian old fashioned, made with Canadian whisky.

READ MORE: Local Winter Getaway Guide: Family Fun at Silver Star

Après

Lovingly referred to as the “locals’ living room,” Bottoms Bar & Grill is nestled at the base of the mountain. It’s the perfect ski-out après spot, serving up craft beers, big cocktails and hearty pub fare.

At Fondue Stube (open seasonally from December), you’ll be greeted by Euro throwback decor as you dig into a hearty Swiss cheese fondue, with chocolate fondue to finish if you’ve got a sweet tooth.

Another ooey-gooey option is the après raclette experience at Mantles, where you can gather your favourite ski bunnies around a tabletop grill and melt traditional raclette cheese over meats, seafood and vegetables.

Explore

Beyond the slopes, the resort’s NHL-sized, covered outdoor rink at the Sun Peaks Sports Centre, a short walk from the village, offers public skating and rentals. And for those looking to build confidence on the mountain, some ski and snowboard group lessons have a 3:1 student-to-instructor ratio, with programs for different ages and abilities.

Stay

For the classic resort experience, the ski-in, ski-out Sun Peaks Grand Hotel is home to the village’s only heated outdoor pool, along with three slopeside hot tubs.

For families or bigger groups, Bear Country Vacation Rentals manages a wide selection of condos, townhomes and vacation homes, with options ranging from one to four bedrooms. Many have full kitchens and private hot tubs. There are also plenty of privately owned vacation rentals on Airbnb and Vrbo.

Getting Here

From Vancouver, it’s about a five-hour drive via Highway 1 and the Coquihalla. Winter tires or chains are required on designated B.C. highways beginning October 1, so plan accordingly.

The closest airport is Kamloops Airport, about 45 to 50 minutes away by car or shuttle. Direct flights are available from Vancouver and Calgary, with other routes varying by season.

READ MORE: Winter Getaways for People Who Don’t Ski

Explore More B.C. Getaways

• Winter Adventures in Golden, B.C.
• Where to Eat in Victoria, B.C.
• Browse the Complete B.C. Getaway Guide

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From the November/December 2026 issue of Western Living magazine. Subscribe to Western Living for more design, travel and lifestyle stories.