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With Nordic trails, waterfall hikes and glowing attractions, Golden proves that you don’t have to be a ski pro to love winter in the Columbia Valley.
It turns out having a groomed ski trail to yourself is exactly what it’s cracked up to be: my surroundings are blissful and quiet, apart from my laboured breathing and the swish and glide of my cross-country skis. Above the sugar-dusted treetops, I can see a bluebird sky and spectacular views of the snowcapped mountains lining both sides of the Columbia Valley, home to the industrious town of Golden.
Located along the busy Trans-Canada Highway, Golden is too often a drive-by rather than a rightful stopover for travellers. I’m always pleasantly surprised by the variety of things you can do here in all seasons, but especially in winter. Golden’s reputation as an elite skiing destination, thanks to the legendary Kicking Horse Mountain Resort and acres of epic backcountry heli-skiing, is well-earned. But my slope style leans more no-pro than GoPro, and with the wide array of wintry pursuits I can do both on and off the slopes, that’s no problemo here. From waterfall walks to new nighttime illuminations, Golden rules with winter fun for just about every speed.
As one of the communities that anchor B.C.’s celebrated Powder Highway, Golden punches above its weight on the heart-pounding winter adventure scale. The slopes at Kicking Horse, known as the “Champagne Powder Capital of Canada,” have a fearsome reputation as an advanced ski hill, with one of the highest vertical drops in North America. But there’s plenty of room for beginner and intermediate skiers like me to enjoy more than 24 feet of annual snowfall near the summit, covering 120-plus runs, five alpine bowls and 85-plus chutes across 3,486 acres.
This ski girl at heart can’t tackle all that terrain without refuelling at the mountaintop Eagle’s Eye Restaurant. After waffling over menu choices ranging from beefy chili to a stacked halloumi burger, I dig into a steaming, savoury Thai bowl while admiring the snowy mountain views through the floor-to-ceiling windows of what is literally Canada’s most elevated dining experience, at 7,700 feet above sea level.
READ MORE: Backcountry Bliss and Pristine Powder in the Kootenay Rockies
Steep and deeps aside, I find that there’s more than one way to get my heart rate up. Shifting to a more horizontal plane, I clip into my rented cross-country skis at Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre, near Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. Setting out to conquer a few kilometres of its 33 kilometres of groomed classic and skate ski trails, I quickly learn that lighter layers are the key to not overheating despite the dry cold.
My visit does not coincide (perhaps fortunately) with Golden’s annual Huckleberry Loppet ski event. There are prizes and distances for all ages and abilities, but the winners of the longer-distance events receive the ultimate reward: a full pound of locally picked huckleberries.
Golden also has acres of deep-powder snowmobiling terrain to fulfill a need for speed, including the riding areas of Gorman Lake, Silent Pass, Westbench Trail and Quartz Creek. Quartz Creek is the town’s marquee riding area, with easy access from the Trans-Canada Highway. Its groomed trails offer approachable routes for beginners, while more advanced riders can venture into technical alpine terrain.
While some of the region’s bigger furry residents are tucked into their dens for winter, at Golden’s Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre, I leave my ski poles behind and take a walk on the wild side. The outdoor educational facility focuses on wolf conservation, offering interpretive talks about these beautiful, often-misunderstood predators and their critical role in the environment.
After learning about the resident wolves from the centre’s staff, I join members of the pack, including Flora, the facility’s then-14-year-old “wolf ambassador,” for an unforgettable 90-minute guided hike through their natural habitat in the beautiful Blaeberry Valley.
Editor’s note: Flora died in September 2026. The Northern Lights Wildlife Wolf Centre continues to offer guided wolf walks by reservation.
Located approximately 30 kilometres east of Golden, the winter hike to Wapta Falls is a relatively flat, roughly nine-kilometre round trip that leads to the widest waterfall on the Kicking Horse River. On the day I do the trek, I wear my high-top hiking boots, but if it’s been very cold and snowy, take the hint and strap on ice spikes or snowshoes.
Follow the path from the highway parking lot, along the snow-covered access road and over a few low, rolling hills to a viewpoint near the falls. Watch your footing, especially along the lower section, where icy mist can make the trail slippery.
Bowling has rightly been at the heart of Golden’s nighttime pursuits thanks to the classic 1960s-era lanes of beloved Golden Bowling, but I’m also looking forward to the unveiling of the town’s newest non-ski attraction.
Golden Skybridge is debuting TrailGlow on Boxing Day, December 26, 2026. The family-friendly, immersive light-and-sound experience will illuminate the attraction after dark, leading visitors across the Lower Skybridge and toward the Touch the Sky viewing deck.
TrailGlow will run daily during the winter holiday period, then on select dates through February 28, 2027, including Family Day week. Check the official operating schedule before visiting.
READ MORE: Local Winter Getaway Guide: Three B.C. Escapes
I love Golden’s compact downtown and its collection of independent shops and restaurants by the river. The River Walk opened in 2021, transforming the waterfront with a lovely walkway, seating areas and access to local cafés, restaurants, bars, bookstores (don’t miss the second floor of Four Points Books) and shops.
It connects to the Kicking Horse Pedestrian Bridge, the longest freestanding timber-frame bridge in Canada at 46 metres, and to the Golden Stroll, an interactive walking tour that brings the community’s history to life through a series of videos you can watch by scanning QR codes along the Rotary Trail.
On my way out of town, I grab an oat-milk cappuccino and brekkie burrito at Bluebird Café before hitting the road for the journey home. I know it won’t be long before I’m back. In Golden, winter really does rule, with a bevy of activities for everyone.
Originally published in the November/December 2026 issue of Western Living. Subscribe to Western Living for more design, travel and lifestyle stories.
Claudia Laroye is a Vancouver-based freelance writer and author writing about adventure, food, wellness and sustainable travel. She’s written for publications around the world, including Afar, the Globe and Mail, Nuvo, JetSetter and, now, BCBusiness. Her first feature highlights the thrills of backcountry cat skiing along B.C.’s Powder Highway. “I love tackling new adventures in all seasons,” she says. “The Kootenay Rockies in winter is British Columbia’s magnificent mountain playground.” Her award-winning travel anthology, A Gelato a Day, was published in 2022.
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