Do You Know Chenin?

A great bottle from the criminally unheralded grape.

2012 Bellingham Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc ($25)A lot of white wines are described as tasting €œhoneyed€: viognier, some new-world chardonnay, roussanne from France's Rhône Valley. But for me, no grape captures the essence of artisanal honey€”not the sickly sweet stuff that comes in a plastic bear€”than chenin blanc.South Africa produces nearly twice as much steen (what they call chenin) as France and while much of it is forgettable, when it's on point like this wine€”honey-roasted nuts mixed with nasturtiums€”it represents very close to the grape's pinnacle at an altogether reasonable price.