As little as a decade ago, pairing for a vegetarian menu would have been a snap—simply pick wines that won’t overwhelm the more delicate flavours of veg-forward dishes. But, as these recipes illustrate, when it comes to vegetarian food, we’ve come a long way, baby. That also means your pairings have to dial it up a few notches. Here, there are a few issues in play, starting with rich sauces that call for high acid, and ample umami, which triggers a caution to avoid high tannins. Oh yeah, and let’s be festive to boot. Here are some off-the-usual-beat options to go with these off-the-usual-beat vegetarian recipes.

Black Hills Sparkling Brut 2019 ($55) 

Ten years ago there was no more than a handful of bubbles I’d recommend; today, every new year brings a winner—like this exceptionally classy, well-made offering from the legendary Black Hills. This is the second year of this chardonnay-dominant fizz and it sees extensive bottle aging—the current vintage is 2019—giving it a toasty but focused approach that can dance with any of the dishes here. It can also go toe-to-toe with a champagne that’s twice the price.

Plume Chenin Blanc 2024 $35 

The fall-back white—chardonnay—can run the gamut from on-point when good to seriously flabby when not. Chenin offers much of the same wonderful fruit, but with a consistent shaft of acidity regardless of where it’s made, making it highly versatile for a varied menu like this. Plus, it’s nice to have a “Crafted in B.C.”-branded wine in the mix to toast the resiliency of the industry in this toughest of tough years.

Elena Walch Schiava 2024 $38 

You need to get to know the Northern Italian grape schiava because it creates wines of tremendous drinkability that are a fun alternative to the usual pinot. There are some beautiful bouncy cherry notes, but also wild herbal alpine interludes that make this bottle a savoury, juicy partner to a holiday feast. In 2026, Alto Adige is the region to watch.

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Neal McLennan

Neal McLennan