“We’ve seen four bears so far,” I overhear a woman say. We’re both out for early-morning strolls on the grounds of the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, getting a bit of fresh air before the sun (and the mosquitoes) invade the sky. She’s talking on her cellphone—no doubt to some poor soul back home who’s fighting off fits of jealousy at her wildlife-spotting luck. Even I can’t help but feel a bit envious: four bears! That has got to be some kind of blessing from the gods.

But such is the unique magic of a stay in Jasper National Park: you never know what you’re going to see, or when. Spanning over 11,000 square-kilometres, the park is a true natural wonder—and the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is easily its most comfortable and luxurious jumping-off point.

The hotel, which dates back to 1915, is perched on the calm shores of Lac Beauvert, with Alberta’s iconic Rocky Mountains sitting oh-so pretty in behind. What began as a “city” of 10 pitched tents has morphed into one of Canada’s most beloved hotels, combining the outdoorsy charms of an adult summer camp with the five-star quality that is signature to the Fairmont brand.

Still, the property was, as of late, in need of some love—its calibre of service was never in question, but its spaces had begun to look dated. A modern reimagination was overdue, which is why the hotel recently unveiled a $100-million renovation spanning guest rooms, common areas, and dining facilities. The key, says hotel general manager Garrett Turta, was to give everything a refresh without losing sight of the property’s heritage.

The reimagined lobby lounge, Lume.

A $100-Million Refresh, Seven Months in the Making

“There are a lot of people who really hold this place near and dear to their heart,” says Turta, seated in the reimagined lobby lounge called Lume, which features exposed brick walls, navy barstools, and plush green couches (tip: order the Mountain Caesar for an elevated take on a classic Canadian cocktail). “We wanted to take it to another level. We wanted to refine it and clean it up, but still keep Jasper Park Lodge what it is, and define who we want to be for the future. Because it really is about being together with your friends, your family. It’s about rejuvenation.”

The renovations, designed by EDG Design, HBA and Alberta’s own Frank Architecture & Interiors, took the better part of seven months to complete—starting, most notably, with the grand, vaulted-ceilinged lobby, which hadn’t been properly touched up since it was built in 1953. Immediately upon entering, guests are immersed in a space that was designed to celebrate Jasper’s legendary night skies, with dark blue hues covering the check-in area and two light fixtures inspired by the constellations Cygnus and Cassiopeia hanging overhead. At the new concierge station, wooden accents reminiscent of canoe paddles instantly spark a sense of adventure. Even so, other design elements—including two majestic totem poles and a flagship stone fireplace—remain untouched. Some things are perfect the way they are.

At Elderwood, a brand-new lobby restaurant concept, gone is the dated patchwork floor tiling, the uninspired grey leather seating, and the mismatched colour scheme; in their place are tasteful brown and seafoam banquettes, glossy marbled tables and exposed wood accents—all positioned in front of floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the sparkling lake down below.

“Elderwood represents the stories of the forest,” Turta explains. “And as we go forward, it represents the stories that this room will tell for future generations.” Culinary highlights at Elderwood include elk shakshuka with feta and herb salad, and oatmeal with coconut milk, fresh berries and walnuts at breakfast; and elk meatballs with smoked mint chimichurri, charred cauliflower with roasted red pepper hummus and pine nuts and classic Alberta steak (of course) with triple-cooked potato wedges at dinner.

Elderwood is the Jasper Park Lodge’s new lobby restaurant.

For those who want even more red meat, the hotel’s new luxury steakhouse The Barbicon does it well—from steak tartare with puffed quinoa, gherkins, shallots, and egg yolk to crispy Brussels sprouts with honey (best eaten alongside a perfectly charred Alberta porterhouse or ribeye). Or, for lighter grab-and-go fare, visit the hotel’s new cafe Embark Outpost & Provisions, which also features a full-service activities centre. “We’d never really had an adventure centre where you could come grab your coffee, but then also plan your day with activities and go out and explore,” Turta says. “That’s one thing that we want to make sure that people are doing and taking advantage of.”

Which brings me back to the woman and her bears. Wildlife is abundant in Jasper, and the best way to see any is to get out into the hotel’s surrounding nature. Much of the forest remains sparse after 2024’s devastating wildfires, but the natural beauty here remains unparalleled: craggy mountain peaks, towering alpine treelines and glacier-fed lakes dot the landscape as far as the eye can see. Those who want to venture into the surrounding forest can rent e-bikes from the hotel’s boathouse; for something further afield, take the 45-minute drive down the winding road to Maligne Lake. Once you get there, go for a hike on one of the nearby trails or book a boat cruise, which takes you out onto the lake for unparalleled glacier views; afterwards, grab a made-to-order waffle and coffee from the onsite Waffle Hut.

Once our bellies are full of waffles, my partner and I pile into the car for the drive back to the Jasper Park Lodge. About halfway along, we see a small cluster of vehicles pulled off to the side of the road: a surefire sign that there’s wildlife nearby. Sure enough, as we get closer, I spot it: a young male moose. Standing just off the road, he quietly munches on some grass, seemingly unbothered by his steadily growing fanbase. My heart thumps in my chest as I roll down my window to snap a few pictures. It’s these moments—the kind that you couldn’t plan for even if you tried—that make Jasper teem with magic. Even now, looking back on it a few days later, it almost doesn’t seem real.

More Pictures

The reimagined lobby lounge.

 

The Barbicon restaurant’s fireplace.

 

The Elderwood lobby lounge restaurant.

 

The spa lounge.

 

Sara Harowitz

Sara Harowitz

Sara Harowitz is a freelance writer and editor based in Vancouver. Her work can be found in publications including The Globe and Mail, Maclean's, Conde Nast Traveler, CBC, The Tyee, and Canada's National Observer. Photo: Lauren D. Zbarsky