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Plan a slow Southern Gulf Islands weekend with thrift-store treasure hunts, farm stands, local brews, waterfront saunas and plenty of island time.
Planning for a laidback long weekend at a friend’s mid-century cabin on Mayne Island is a strange exercise in time management. There are great places to eat and shop and explore on this sleepy-yet-scenic Gulf Island, but thanks to what locals refer to as “island time,” you’ve got an extremely limited window in which to visit or you’re simply out of luck.
That’s how I find myself on a Saturday morning racing from the Village Bay ferry dock to the famed Mayne Island Thrift Store and “Store Next Door.” Open just three hours once a week, it’s totally worth planning a visit to the volunteer-run shop for its crammed aisles of vintage finds, including housewares, clothes, books and puzzles (a must-have for this slow-mo island visit). I pick up a few vintage board games for $1 each and wolf plates so gloriously weird they simply cannot be left behind (and are a steal at $2).
Just across the street, we duck into the Saturday market to browse artisanal gifts and pick up freshly baked cookies on the recommendation of one of the makers. And then one last stop: the Farm Gate Store, where lunch practically assembles itself. We grab veggie sandwiches on house-baked whole-grain bread with organic grilled peppers and Salt Spring Island Romelia cheese, topped with local shoots.
Back at the cabin—in all its cedar and glass and preserved-1960s glory—we settle into what a slow island weekend demands: staring dreamily at the Strait of Georgia, picking away at a 1,000-piece puzzle, and daily trips to the waterfront barrel sauna, pausing only to take reviving cold plunges into the Pacific.
With a population of only around 1,300 year-round residents, Mayne Island offers the kind of magic that is increasingly rare in travel: an experience that has not been smoothed for the benefit of tourists. Considered quiet even in comparison to its Southern Gulf Island neighbours, there’s no pressure to hit everything on a bucket list. Because there isn’t one.
Taking one last beach walk before catching the ferry home after a weekend of relaxing and exploring (there are, if you’re in the mood, quite a few things to do: See Below), I feel genuinely rested, versus needing another vacation. Chalk it up to that magical island time.
READ MORE: How to Spend One Perfect Day on Galiano Island
The Saturday market runs May through October in the Agricultural Hall, showcasing unique housewares, pottery, handmade soaps and candles, jewellery and (seriously) exceptional baked goods. 430 Fernhill Rd.
Give Pizza Chance serves up imaginative ’zas out of a trailer in Miners Bay. Try the Elvis Lives, with smoked ham, pineapple (naturally!), banana peppers and smoky BBQ sauce. It’s open 3 to 7 p.m., Wednesdays through Saturdays. 419 Fernhill Rd.
With quiet coves, sheltered beaches and uncrowded trails, Mayne is perfect for cycling, kayaking, hiking and bird watching. The 4.7-kilometre Mount Parke Loop is the most popular hike, where you’ll be rewarded at the summit with stunning panoramic views of Active Pass and the surrounding Gulf Islands.
Built in Dinner Bay Park to commemorate the early Japanese settlers who lived on the island and were interned during the Second World War, the Japanese Memorial Garden is a beautifully manicured stroll adorned with ornamental flowers, trees and ponds.
Accommodations aren’t plentiful, so book well in advance. Mayne Island Resort (494 Arbutus Dr.) offers rooms, villas and family-friendly cottages (some that are dog-friendly) with unobstructed water views starting at $209. Tent camping is also possible during summer and short-term rentals are available through VRBO and Airbnb.
Farm stands, where local purveyors sell everything from fresh-cut flowers to preserves and produce from the end of their driveway, are a mainstay here. Many are unmanned and operate on the honour system, so bring cash. The Briary (639 Horton Bay Rd.) offers gourmet preserves that change seasonally, like rose jelly, strawberry-kiwi jam and garlic scapes infused in white balsamic vinegar. It’s a perfect stop on your way back to the ferry for loading up on extremely charming presents.
Stock up on seasonal organic veggies and local blooms at Hardscrabble Farm (45 Hardscrabble Rd.). At Silver Moon Hollow (509 Fernhill Rd.), it’s an eclectic mix of seasonal plants and planters, spice blends, art cards and hand-knit toques.
After a day of exploring, dive into a flight of hand-crafted brews and a cheeky charcuterie board at the outdoor tasting room at Mayne Island Brewing Co. (open Friday through Sunday from 1 to 5 p.m.). Set in a wooded lot, the award-winning brewery (which supplies select restaurants in Vancouver and Victoria) produces seasonally crafted batches of ales and lagers. Must-tries include the Mayne Island Forager, a Belgian-style saison and the cocoa-infused Old Mayner brown lager. 490 Fernhill Rd.
BC Ferries provides year-round service to Mayne, but reservations are recommended. Seair seaplane flights from Richmond and Vancouver are available to Miners Bay.
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