I’ve Been Drinking—And Loving—This Bottle of B.C. Riesling For 2 Weeks

I don’t drink riesling as much as you’d think given the superlatives I frequently heap upon it. If I’m cooking a basic pasta dinner at home more often than not I’m tossing back an easygoing Grillo or Pecorino. It’s a little like casually watching to Bourne Supremacy when it’s on, versus the focus required to dive into There Will Be Blood. The latter is undoubtedly a better movie, but you don’t always want to hear DDL going full tilt on “abandoning his child” will stirring risotto.

Syncromesh Storm Haven Gibson Block 3 Riesling 2023 $40

But, two Saturdays ago, while idly watching the hockey playoffs, I did decide to grab a riesling and all hell broke lose. I’m not being hyperbolic when I say from the moment I stuck my nose into the glass I felt like time was standing still. I was home alone but still muttered a “Holy Sh*t” to no one. The nose was so note perfect: a little lime rind, some crisp peach, a pleasing whiff of petrol all deeply concentrated. And in the mouth, magic. Huge viscosity and mouthfeel, ripe rich fruits that are kept absolutely in line by the cleanest, firmest vein of acidity. There was just so much going on and yet everything appeared to be working together. It’s what you’d call an off-dry riesling, meaning it’s classified as sweet, but it ain’t sweet, it’s balanced. Just an absolute stunner of a glass.

It gets better: I turn the bottle over…and it’s 7.82 percent alcohol, so about the same as the average Vancouver IPA. I’m not one to get hung up on alcohol: a wine can be balanced at 16 percent or, I guess, at 7.82 percent. Making the ABV (alcohol by volume) so low not only helps the next morning, but’s seriously tricky in the winery. Just when I couldn’t get anymore fanboy about it, I screwed the cap back on, popped it back in the fridge and headed off to the U.K. for a work trip. I came back and poured myself a glass of the bottle opened 13 days previous. Still alive, still vibrant, still singing. That was about a week ago now and you know what? The final dredges are still kicking, eminently drinkable after more than 15 days of being opened. I’m seriously considering buying a case and always having a bottle open in my fridge 365 days a year.

In reality, I suppose I shouldn’t have been so surprised. If you polled 100 B.C. winemakers as to who makes the best wine in the province, there’s just no way that Syncromesh isn’t on the podium. There are flashier, more well PR-represented spots but few who have the focus and dedication than winemaker Alan Dickinson does. Storm Haven is their premium label, so it’s supposed to knock you on your ear. Even still, this is a really special bottle of wine. As for buying it, it’s technically a wine club-only bottle but as you can see here, sometimes you can find it at private wine stores and on really good wine lists. Not easy, but worth it.