The Wine List: 3 Unexpected Whites to Sip All Summer Long

Traditionally, when June 21 rolls around, we transition into lighter, crisper whites to usher in the longer days and warmer weather. Changing tastes, however, mean that, for many of us, these are the wines we drink all year long. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t a few surprises lurking in the warm months for anyone who’s willing to push the envelope a bit.

1. Tantalus 2023 Bear Chardonnay ($23.48) 

Chardonnay is not the lightest grape on its feet and on top of that it’s frequently exposed to new oak, making it an ideal full-bodied winter white. But Tantalus’s David Paterson brings a less-is-more ethos to this bargain bottle: no new oak, keep the alcohol low and put an emphasis on the citrus and saltiness that the grape can convey. This wine is a chablis hack for when you want to fill the drinks buckets for a party but not pay $50 a bottle.

2. Gérard Bertrand Orange Gold 2022 ($30)

You may have had some issues with your first exposure to orange wine, but trust us: it’s not going away. The key for this natty darling is to find a reliable producer—like Languedoc’s Gérard Bertrand—who can lead you on the journey toward the complexity and unique flavour (spicy, structured) that comes from letting white grapes stay in contact with their skins for an extended period. This bottle is happy to stand up to collard greens and jalapenos.

3. Umani Ronchi Verdicchio ($22)

There’s a point in every bottle of verdicchio where I question whether it’s my thing: it’s tangy, salty—almonds covered in lemon zest. A lot of palates don’t expect this level of  savouriness in a white wine. But then I have another sip, and another, and another, and by the end I’m in love with its ability to support even the heartiest of food pairings. Capers and olives and eggs? No problem.