Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka are some of the biggest tourist hot spots in Japan, and for good reason: the cities are filled with amazing architecture, vibrant culture and a dynamic food scene that’s hard to beat. But those looking for a travel destination in Japan that’s a little off the beaten path, get introduced to Naoshima, one of the major art islands amongst the Setouchi Islands.

What are the Setouchi Islands?

The Setouchi Islands are a collection of thousands of islands located within the Seto Inland Sea. The major islands consist of Naoshima, Teshima and Inujima, and are a quick ferry ride away from major cities Takamatsu and Okayama. Every three years, the Setouchi Triennale takes place across the region in April, August and October, highlighting gorgeous artworks and architectural designs, making 2025 the perfect year to visit the islands.

Getting there

To get to Naoshima, you will have to hop on a ferry or a high speed boat from either Uno Port in Tamano City or Takamatsu Port in Takamatsu City. I recommend getting to the islands from Takamatsu Port, as ferries and boats leave for the islands at higher frequencies. Ferry rides will set you back ¥520 ($5 CAD), while high speed boats cost ¥1,220 ($12 CAD) one way. You can check the schedules and fare prices here.

Where to stay

Benesse House

A retreat made up of four buildings — each with their own design and architectural themes — just might be the perfect spot to rest your head on an art holiday. Choose between the secluded Oval that features sweeping views of the Inland sea and Naoshima; the Park, a rare wooden building designed by architect and designer Tadao Ando; the spacious Beach suites fully equipped with two semi-double beds and plush couches; or the Museum, where each room is decorated with gorgeous artworks by the artists in the museum’s collection. Guests staying at Benesse House can also take advantage of the free shuttle bus that takes you directly from Miyanoura Port to the museum. benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Address: Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

Naoshima Ryokan Roka

Just a five-minute walk away from the Honmura District, Naoshima Ryokan Roka is a Japanese inn that blends traditional with the contemporary. The rooms are fitted with paper sliding doors, futon mattresses and sleek minimalist decorations. Each room also comes with a private open-air bath, inviting you to immerse yourself not only in soothing mineral-rich waters, but also in the tranquil beauty of the surrounding landscape. Drop by the restaurant in the evening and enjoy a variety of fresh seafood and produce for dinner— all sourced from the Seto Inland Sea region. roka.voyage/en/

Address: 123, Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

What to do

Benesse House Museum

When visiting Naoshima, the Benesse House Museum is a must-visit. Opened in 1992, the museum features a wide variety of artworks ranging from paintings and sculptures to permanent site-specific installations that artists have created specially for the building. Alongside the main gallery, there are also a multitude of outdoor artworks scattered throughout the park and along the shore. The Valley Gallery is easy to miss: this small, shrine-like building is just ten-minute walk away from the main museum and is located within famous artist Yayoi Kusama’s 1966 artwork, “Narcissus Garden”. benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Address: Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

Chichu Art Museum

Constructed in 2004, the Chichu Art Museum was built with the relationship between nature and people in mind. The museum was built mostly underground to avoid affecting the natural scenery of the Seto Inland sea, but still allows in ample natural light that changes the ambience of the space throughout the day. The museum is also home to a permanent collection of artworks including five paintings from Claude Monet’s Water Lilies series and James Turrell’s signature light artworks. The Chichu Art Museum is best visited in the evening as Turrell’s “Open Sky” has a special 45-minute sunset viewing that takes place at 4 p.m. everyday. Fans of Claude Monet would know that the beloved artist was also a dining aficionado, keeping multiple journals filled with recipes. Chichu’s museum shop sells honey cookies and raspberry jam made using those very recipes, so don’t forget to pick some up as a souvenir. benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Address: 3449-1, Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

Art House Project

Besides museums, Naoshima’s neighbourhoods are also teeming with gorgeous public art installations. The Art House Project had artists convert empty houses within the residential area into works of art and its seven installations take you on a journey through the Honmura district. Highlights of this self-guided tour include “Minamidera”, a collaborative work between James Turrell and Tadao Ando, and “Go’o Shrine” by Hiroshi Sugimoto, where a stunning flight of glass stairs links an underground stone chamber with the main hall. The underground chamber can also be viewed, but keep in mind that the passageway is extremely narrow—claustrophobes beware! benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Address: Multiple locations in the Honmura district

Naoshima Bath “I♥︎湯” (I Love Yu)

Skip bathing at the hotel and have a soak at I Love Yu, a public bath house that has been fitted with colourful mosaic tiles, ceramics and massive murals—all created and devised by artist Shinro Ohtake. Chat with locals while relaxing in the communal tub and follow it up with a local sake or beer. Don’t worry if public bath houses aren’t your thing—I Love Yu is open as an exhibition during the day, allowing you to admire the artworks and take pictures freely. benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Address: 2252-2 Naoshima, Kagawa District, 761-3110

Where to eat

Benesse House Terrace Restaurant

This gorgeous restaurant fitted with floor-to-ceiling windows offers a stunning view of the ocean. The Terrace Restaurant serves up French cuisine using produce sourced from the Seto Inland Sea region. While à la carte options are available, their multi-course menu gives you more bang for your buck. From ¥13,970 ($135), enjoy an eight-course meal that features a marinated striped jack served with a zesty lemon sauce made from Setouchi lemons and a crispy roast duck served with seasonal vegetables. benesse-artsite.jp/en/

Address: Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

Akaito Coffee

This quaint café is situated inside an unassuming wooden house in the middle of the Kagawa District. Akaito Coffee can be difficult to find but with the help of Google Maps and by following the smell of freshly ground coffee beans, you’ll be at the café in no time. The Akaito blend (from ¥500/$4.80) is a medium roast coffee that combines beans from Brazil and Colombia and has a milder flavour profile that doesn’t put off less-frequent coffee drinkers. Pair your coffee with a warm, homemade scone (¥180/$1.70), or with a fluffy piece of toast topped with a generous serving of cinnamon sugar (¥220/$2.10). akaitocoffee.net

Address: 2269 Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

Tee’s Deli Grocery

Stepping into Tee’s Deli Grocery is like stepping into a friend’s living room. Inside, you’ll find a mix of simple wooden tables and chairs, complemented by colourful accents and quirky decor touches such as hand-embroidered wall art, local artwork, and animal trinkets littered across the space. Walk into the side room near the entrance and you’ll find Tee’s personal vinyl collection filling every nook and cranny. Ask him about his collection or his love for music and he’ll give you a full tour and even recommend artists you haven’t heard of yet. Making it all the more homey, Tee runs the diner entirely by himself, from serving to cooking and cleaning. The menu is small with only two main options–falafel or chicken (¥2,400/$24)–but both dishes are jam-packed with flavour, spice and made with a whole lot of love.

Address: 2249-16 Naoshima, Kagawa District 761-3110

Cafe Salon Nakaoku

Come lunch and dinner time, you’ll see long queues forming outside of Cafe Salon Nakaoku—and for good reason.This little eatery has amazing service and delicious food to boot. For lunch, Nakaoku serves up a fluffy omurice (¥800/$7.70) topped either with a housemade sauce made from organic tomatoes from Italy or a mouth-watering coconut curry that is the perfect balance of sweet and spicy. During dinner, Nakaoku switches up its menu in favour of seafood-forward dishes like octopus sauteed with fragrant spices and Setouchi halfbeak that’s been grilled with mirin for a tangy kick. Don’t forget to order dessert—the homemade chiffon cake is so light and fluffy that it will have you asking for seconds. cafesalon-naka-oku.jimbofree.com

Address: 1167 Naoshima, Kagawa District, 761-3110