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Portuguese wines deserve a little love. Here's six reasons why.
2007 Borges Quinta de Sao Simao da Aguira, Portugal, $18We’re into that “is it summer or isn’t it?” that time of year, so this article isn’t my yearly screed on what a great value Vinho Verde is (other than saying it’s pronounced VEEN-Ho VAIRD, not VAIRD-ay). It’s about how the country deserves some major love not just for the value wines, but also for ones that still keep the price real while bringing you a trifecta of terroir, uniqueness and beautifully made wines. And with in this milieu there are wines that have resisted the siren call of high-alcohol and high-extraction that is becoming prevalent in many new wines from neighbouring Spain. I love this bottle for a multitude of reasons:1. It’s low in alcohol (12.5%)2. Even though it’s light in body it has some tannins and they’re not the soft kind.3. It’s from the Dao not the Douro, which is amazing but hogs a disproportionate amount of the small spotlight Portugal gets.4. It reminds of a wine from Piedmont (really structured with a whiff of perfume and a nice dark colour).5. It’s made with Touriga Nacional (which you may have heard of) Tinta Roriz (which is actually Tempranillo) and Trincadeira (which I thought was what you got if you ate undercooked pork).6. It’s $18.All of which to say it’s unique and it really could only come from Portugal. We live in a magic time for wines but while there’s oceans of good wine out there there’s less so memorable and the best of Portugal specializes in both.
Neal McLennan is the wine and spirits editor for Vancouver and Western Living magazines, where he susses out the wonderful (and occasionally weird) options for imbibing across Western Canada.
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